Francesco Risso’s Marni: A Whimsical Journey Through Subdued Elegance in Spring/Summer 2025 Collection
Francesco Risso is entering his ninth year at the helm of Marni, and indications suggest his creative prowess continues to flourish. The latest collection presented today stands out as one of his most impressive to date. While it may be more subdued compared to his typically flamboyant style, it still encapsulates the enchantment and innovation that Risso has consistently brought to the brand, reminiscent of a modern Mad Hatter.
Francesco Risso's Marni: A Whimsical Journey Through Subdued Elegance in Spring/Summer 2025 Collection
Marni has become a brand that is hard to resist under Risso’s guidance. The Italian label has evolved into a symbol of refined whimsy, and it is evident that it has solidified its standing within the fashion industry. Following last season’s avant-garde, surrealist themes, the Spring/Summer 2025 collection took a more understated approach—a rarity for Marni. Risso’s designs exude playful elegance, celebrating the transient nature of beauty.
Where last season featured a painterly inspiration, this time, every one of the 54 looks served as a blank canvas crafted entirely from cotton. In Risso’s skilled hands, this versatile fabric morphed into various forms, taking on origami-like shapes or being treated to resemble luxurious leather.
The collection commenced with more straightforward pieces, showcasing tailored trousers paired with slightly oversized blazers in neutral tones. The whimsical elements gradually unfolded, beginning with vibrant accents in soft mint and pale beige. Unexpectedly, the hem of a fitted pencil skirt burst forth, while cropped jackets boasted exaggerated shoulder lines. Shiny blouses adorned with pussy bows paved the way for bold floral patterns, culminating in striking silhouettes that featured comically oversized shoulders and mermaid-inspired skirts embellished with paper-feather boas.
Risso has a knack for building anticipation, and the show concluded with three breathtaking gowns that, as the designer articulated backstage, represented the essence of beauty itself. The stunning garments, adorned with fabric feathers and crystallized floral appliqués on pannier-skirted silhouettes, conveyed this message without the need for words. Just as swiftly as they appeared, the captivating gowns disappeared—echoing the sentiment of a poem placed on each seat that hinted at the elusive nature of beauty, likening it to a white rabbit darting through a shadowy forest.
