The starting point for Vanhée’s collection was a saddle from the Hermès conservatoire, which led her to explore the world of corsetry—not the traditional satin versions associated with 19th-century saloons, but rather modern, leather harnesses that accentuated the body in striking new ways. These pieces were styled over bandeaus, button-down shirts, and quilted silk-twill riding jackets, all presented in an earthy color palette that included shades of brown, olive, sand, red, and black. In one striking look, a leather harness gracefully held a printed scarf in place, adding a layer of intrigue and sensuality.
A notable theme in Vanhée’s recent collections has been a celebration of the human body, and this season was no exception. “I wanted to have the language of the skin in the collection,” she stated, hinting at the collection’s more explicit undertones. However, some critics called for a broader representation of body types to enrich this dialogue further.
The scarf print featured prominently throughout the collection, reimagined from an original design dating back to the 1980s. This iconic motif appeared in various forms, including a button-front shirt and a quilted bra top paired with a sleek pencil skirt. The recurring quilting detail linked back to the Camargue saddle, showcasing Vanhée’s commitment to craftsmanship and heritage across materials such as luxurious silk twill and exceptional leather.
On the outskirts of the show, a pair of sisters donned matching Hermès ensembles—complete with quilted bombers, mini skirts, crocodile riding boots, and the coveted crocodile Birkin bags—while sharing their thoughts on the brand’s enduring appeal. “Security; you can build a wardrobe without the pieces going out of style or losing their credibility,” they explained. This season also introduced a practical new saddlebag, an elegant addition to the collection that promises to be a wardrobe staple.
While Vanhée maintained a focus on equestrian styles, the overall mood of the collection was decidedly more relaxed than previous seasons. “It’s also a land of bohemians, gypsies—and freedom. I wanted to bring this zest of freedom to equestrian style, which is often associated with the strict and the rational,” she elaborated. The collection, while polished—true to Hermès’s renowned quality—also embraced a sporty, flirty edge, featuring curve-hugging silhouettes, playful shorts, and daring harness details.
As models walked the runway, the atmosphere was electric, with the sand-covered catwalk scattered with seashells, evoking the coastal charm of the Camargue. The collection was a feast for the eyes, with caramel-colored leather coats and mini dresses that featured corset lacing at the back, alongside daring leather shorts with apron fronts and eye-catching halter tops.
Among the standout pieces was a striking red leather top paired with matching trousers, alongside a quilted silk dress layered over bicycle shorts that showcased skin in a bold yet tasteful manner. A white cotton trench, left open to reveal a matching halter top and harness, further accentuated the collection’s flirty vibe.
Despite the more daring elements, there were also demure offerings, including a patchwork cotton coat that opened the show with its tailored silhouette and waist-cinching design. The collection featured an array of ankle-length styles, complemented by cognac leather jackets and coats adorned with buckle-front details. Vanhée highlighted the luxurious quality of the leather, which was hand-polished using a specialized wax typically reserved for saddles, ensuring a high-gloss finish that was simply divine.
Flowing dresses and scarves made from Hermès silk were designed to capture the carefree movement of women riding through the Camargue, with Vanhée cleverly layering long scarves under harness tops for added dimension. The collection also featured blouses with pagoda sleeves, alongside matching bustiers that enhanced the overall sense of fluidity and elegance.
As the show concluded, the audience was left with a palpable sense of excitement, having witnessed a collection that not only celebrates the rich heritage of Hermès but also reinterprets it in a way that feels fresh and contemporary. Vanhée’s ability to merge traditional equestrian elements with a modern, liberated sensibility is a testament to her vision and creativity, solidifying Hermès’s place at the forefront of fashion.
In a season characterized by a desire for freedom and expression, Hermès’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection stands out as a remarkable fusion of past and present, inviting wearers to embrace their individuality while remaining anchored in the brand’s storied legacy. As Paris Fashion Week draws to a close, one thing is certain: Nadège Vanhée has once again redefined what it means to be both free-spirited and stylish, setting a new standard for luxury ready-to-wear.