Iris Van Herpen's Fall/Winter 2025 Haute Couture

Iris Van Herpen’s Fall/Winter 2025 Haute Couture Collection

During a preview of the collection, Van Herpen shared her vision, captivating attendees with her passion for sustainable design. “When it’s happy, it responds to the movement of the person who’s wearing it,” she explained, eliciting awe from the audience. The collection, which features light sculptures, evocative music, ethereal fabrics, and choreographed performances, is reminiscent of the emotional resonance found in nature documentaries, yet it is distinctly marked by Van Herpen’s signature visual poetry.

However, this groundbreaking creation raises several questions, particularly regarding the longevity of the algae dress. “How long will it live?” is a query that looms large, but the answer remains elusive. “We don’t know. No one knows. It’s one big pioneering process,” Van Herpen admitted. She emphasized that the dress is not yet ready for commercial release, noting that it functions more as a museum piece requiring daily care.

To illustrate her point, Van Herpen presented a photograph of the vibrant, squishy garment, which is housed in a steel and glass temperature-controlled chamber, where mist accumulates at the bottom. This collaboration with bio-designer Chris Bellamy has resulted in a strikingly beautiful yet enigmatic piece, made possible by maintaining the algae in a nutrient-rich gel.

The collection features 18 distinct looks, each resembling a self-contained ecosystem. Among these, a kinetic dress created in partnership with artist Casey Curran undulates gracefully, evoking an otherworldly skeleton, while another piece showcases Japanese “air” fabric suspended on wires, mimicking the fluid movements of a jellyfish in invisible tides. Additionally, a cutting-edge “brewed protein” material from Spiber lends a unique texture to a fishtail dress, its resemblance to the suckers of an octopus both intriguing and playful.

Van Herpen’s work is not merely about aesthetics; it is deeply rooted in environmental consciousness. Taking inspiration from Loïe Fuller, a pioneer of modern dance, she equipped a performer with wing-like appendages that interacted with laser beams designed by Nick Verstand, creating a mesmerizing visual metaphor for the depletion of life in our oceans. “This is a reflection of how we have drained the life out of our oceans,” she said, encapsulating the underlying message of the collection.

In a further sensory experience, Van Herpen collaborated with renowned perfumer Francis Kurkdjian to develop a bespoke fragrance that was dispersed throughout the show, creating an immersive atmosphere that engaged all the senses. The collection featured vaporous dresses that behaved like fabric submerged in Europe’s deepest pool, a concept Van Herpen previously explored in her Spring 2023 couture collection. One striking piece, a stiffer dress, whirled upwards around a model, reminiscent of egg whites caught in a culinary twister.

The designer’s exceptional craftsmanship defies gravity and challenges conventional notions of dressmaking, inviting viewers to engage in deeper reflections about our planet’s health and the role of fashion within it. Van Herpen’s innovative approach lights up Paris Couture Week with the exuberance of remarkably lively algae, captivating audiences with its ability to provoke thought and inspire awe.

As the fashion world continues to grapple with sustainability and environmental impact, Van Herpen stands at the forefront, demonstrating how creativity can intertwine with ecological consciousness. Her Fall/Winter 2025 collection serves as a compelling reminder of the interconnectedness of life and art, urging us to consider the vital relationship between humanity and the natural world.

This latest collection, a testament to Van Herpen’s relentless pursuit of innovation, not only redefines haute couture but also challenges the industry to rethink its practices and embrace a more sustainable future. As the models glided down the runway, adorned in garments that seemed to pulse with life, the audience was left to ponder the possibilities of fashion that is not just worn but lived—a stunning exploration that invites ongoing dialogue about art, science, and environmental stewardship.

In a world where the lines between fashion, art, and science continue to blur, Iris Van Herpen’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection stands as a beacon of hope. It not only showcases the beauty of bio-design but also calls for a collective awakening to the responsibilities we hold for our planet. As the collections unfold and the industry evolves, Van Herpen has undoubtedly set a new precedent for what haute couture can achieve, inspiring future generations to view fashion as a living, breathing entity that can reflect and respond to the world around us.